Here is an itinerary of our trip, as of 5-25-16. The yellow line on the map shows where we have been in the past nine months, all 20,859 miles.
And here is a Greatest Hits summary of our trip – you can click on a picture to take you to the related blog post.
September 15 – first day out, Eugene to Crane, Oregon, Greta sitting in a hot spring, realizing she’s not in math class.
September 16 – Craters of the Moon National Monument in Idaho. Incredible lava landscape.
September 17-19: Yellowstone. We arrived in a thunder snowstorm, but had a fantastic time seeing wildlife, hot springs and big landscapes.
and the amazing architecture of Old Faithful Inn.
September 20 – we drove across Wyoming to Devil’s Tower.
and then moved on to Mt. Rushmore and Wall Drug on the 21st.
September 22- South Dakota, with the Badlands, a Minuteman missile and the Corn Palace.
September 23 – visting Linda’s family’s ancestral farm in South Dakota.
September 24-26. Minneapolis and St. Paul.
September 27 – the Frank Lloyd Wright Johnson Wax buildings in Racine.
September 28 – October 2, in Chicago.
October 4-7 in Indianapolis.
and the architecture of Columbus, Indiana.
October 8-9 in Cincinnati.
and the university.
October 10-14 – at the Powdermill Nature Reserve, and Pittsburgh
October 16 at Niagara Falls.
and the 17th & 18th in Buffalo and Rochester
and the small towns of Pennsylvania and New York
October 21 in Albany
The 22nd at Mass MOCA, the contemporary art museum in North Adams
from October 23 to November 4 we were around the Boston area, including downtown
Boston Museums’ remodels and additions
and the old towns around Boston
On to New York November 8 – 12
Philadelphia November 13-15
and the Mercer Museum in Doylestown
November 16-17 in Baltimore
November 18 in Annapolis
November 19-23 in Washington DC.
November 24th to Harpers Ferry
and Luray Caverns
Skyline Drive on November 25
November 26 – December 3 in and around Charlottesville, for Thanksgiving, cold and rainy weather, a little sickness, and lots of eating and drinking and talking.
December 4-5 in Virginia Beach and Norfolk
December 6-7 in Raleigh
December 8-10 in Charleston
December 11-12 in Jacksonville, camping on the beach and seeing the Timucua Historic and Ecological Presevre, including the Kingsley Plantation.
December 14 to the 18th on the Gulf Coast of Florida.
December 18-21st on the Atlantic Coast of Florida. Friends, wind, beaches, and horse racing.
December 22nd to 28th: back to the Gulf Coast for Christmas with family, and getting some things squared away for the next phase of the trip.
December 29-30: Across the state to Tomoka State Park, where we met up with the Celery City String Band, who asked Greta to sit in on washboard.
December 31: St Augustine. We were here four years ago, and came back to check out some architecture and neighborhoods we’d missed.
January 1: Jacksonville – not a great downtown, but stumbled upon a pep rally for the University of Georgia, before some bowl game.
January 2 Fernandina Beach, a fantastic town on Amelia Island. A national historic district from the mid- to late 19th century. And then you go a couple of miles to get to the old town.
January 3rd to 5th: Savannah
January 6th: Beaufort SC, which must have been used as the setting for hundreds of movies.
January 9th: Macon, Georgia, mainly visiting the Allman Brothers Band historical sites.
January 11th: Apalachicola, where there are oysters.
January 12th: Seaside, Florida, the first New Urbanist development, which has changed a lot since I saw it 20 years ago.
January 13th: Ft. Pickens, a fort guarding the entrance to Pensacola Bay since the 1840s.
January 14th: across Alabama, with lunch at the Foley Cafe, and lots of fabulous roadside attractions:
January 15th: Biloxi, with a Frank Gehry museum for the work of George Ohr, the Mad Potter of Biloxi:
January 16th: the Charnley-Norwood house in Ocean Springs, by Louis Sullivan and Frank Lloyd Wright.
January 17th on: We are now in New Orleans, and we may not leave for a long time. We have never been here before, and it is living up to its reputation.
January 23: The Krewe de Vieux parade passes down our block, and is accompanied by a big party at Glen and Michelle’s firehouse.
January 30: the Krewe of Chewbacchus parades through the neighborhood, with its sci-fi focus. Greta gets into lots of light saber fights.
February 2: We visited the Southern Food and Beverage Museum, which has information and artifacts from all southern states (with an emphasis on regional barbecue variations), and a temporary exhibit of the photos and props from the Modernist Cuisine books by Nathan Myhrvold. But of most interest to me was the Museum of the American Cocktail, curated by Dr. Cocktail, Ted Haigh.
February 5: We drove down Bayou LaFourche with Glen, to have lunch with his mom in their house in Cut Off, where Glen grew up. The bayou was not at all what I expected. Greta and I continued on to Fourchon, a huge port that supplies the offshore rigs, and then on to Grande Isle, a resort on the only beach in Louisiana you can reach by car. The whole trip of about 125 miles in one direction was spent within 2 feet of sea level – there really is not much land there, and it is disappearing rapidly.
Bayou LaFourche in Golden Meadows
February 9: After much build-up and many parties and parades, it was Mardi Gras. We spent the day with the St. Anthony Ramblers, and at a wonderful party on Jackson Square.
Greta in front of the Ramblers.
and also a few videos where you can hear the fabulous Panorama Jazz Band:
February 10: a chat with Garrison Keillor on the street.
February 11th: the Lower Ninth Ward, including the Make It Right housing.
February 12th: overwhelmed by the incredibly large and detailed WWII Museum.
February 13th: Driving up River Road, to the Oak Alley plantation.
February 14th: the Waterworks Museum in Shreveport.
February 15: The Perot Museum in Dallas, designed by Morphosis. Science for Greta and architecture for me.
February 16: The Kimbell, Kahn and Piano.
February 17: Back to Dallas for yet more museums and architecture, including the extraordinary courtyard at the Ed Barnes Dallas Museum of Art, by Dan Kiley.
February 19th: the Menil Collection, Piano’s first museum in the US.
February 20th: Houston
February 20th on: Austin (lest we forget).
February 24th: Smitty’s Market in Lockhart, the bbq capital of Texas. They just build the fires on the floor, and the smokes is drawn into the pits. The brisket was like no other brisket we’ve ever had.
The San Antonio Stock Show and Rodeo. We stumbled upon what is apparently one of the premier big rodeos in the country. We watched the group cattle penning competition before heading into the arena for the main events.
February 25th: the San Antonio Missions, four spectacular 18th century mission compounds which stretch along the river south of the downtown.
and downtown San Antonio. The Riverwalk is actually better than I expected, and it is just part of what is clearly the best downtown in Texas.
February 25th: crossing the Pecos River, we are officially back out West.
February 28th: Big Bend National Park. The Santa Elena Canyon, perhaps the coolest thing we’ve seen on this trip.
February 29th: Big Bend has amazing variety, with desert, mountains, canyons and the Rio Grande. Here is a picture of our campsite in the Chisos Mountains Basin, taken from the Lost Mine Trail. For a scale comparison, I’ll point out our trailer.
March 2nd: Marfa, Texas, where minimalist sculptor Donald Judd moved in the 1970s, creating a museum on a former army base, which has permanent installations of his own and others’ work, such as John Chamberlain:
The town of Marfa itself is also quite an attraction, in a different way.
March 4th: Carlsbad Caverns. Very cool. Hiking down 800 into the ground (which feels so wrong), and then walking around the largest cavern in the country.
March 5th: Saguaro National Park. Big cacti and dangerous animals.
March 6th: Tucson and the University of Arizona, which has some nice buildings with great shading devices.
March 27th: Phoenix. Look closely.
March 29th: Arcosanti, Paolo Soleri’s model city, looking even better than before.
Montezuma’s Castle, looking exactly the same. Greta actually remembered things from seeing it when she was three years old.
March 30th: Hoover Dam.
March 31st: Las Vegas. More than Greta could handle.
April 2: Zion National Park
April 6: Bryce Canyon National Park
April 8: Capitol Reef National Park.
April 9th: Canyonlands National Park
April 10th: Arches National Park
April 11th: Greta hiking in Arches.
April 13: Monument Valley. (Yes, it really does look like this. They didn’t have CGI when they made those movies).
April 14: Navajo National Monument. Those are houses under the arch.
April 15: Glen Canyon Dam, Lake Powell, and the Horseshoe Bend on the Colorado River.
April 16: Antelope Canyon.
April 18th: The Grand Canyon (El Tovar hotel at right for scale)
April 20th: The Hopi reservation. This is the village of Walpi on top of First Mesa, which is around 700 years old.
April 22nd: Canyon de Chelly. White House cliff dwelling, at the bottom of the canyon.
April 25th: Chaco Culture National Historic Park.
April 28th: Albuquerque, including the amazing Bart Prince house.
April 28th: Acoma Pueblo.
April 29th: Santa Fe. In the past month in the Southwest we have seen skies and clouds unlike anywhere else. This picture has not been photoshopped – actual view of distant storm from our campground. We think it is the Glowcloud over Nightvale.
May 1st: Taos. No one told me there was this amazing mountain right next to town.
May 4th: Taos Pueblo.
‘May 5th: Mesa Verde, inside the Balcony House cliff dwelling.
May 7th: Michael Heizer’s Double Negative, out in the Nevada desert.
May 11th: the Pacific Ocean within sight, for the first time in eight months.
May 12th: Monterey, including the amazing Monterey Bay Aquarium.
May 13th: Carmel. This is a little hard to process after two months in the Southwest.
My 14th: Santa Cruz,
including Charles Moore’s Kresge College at UCSC.
May 17th: Cruising around the Peninsula, including the Stanford campus.
May 18th : the new art building by Diller Scofidio at Stanford (overwrought but kind of boring), and the beautiful Anderson Museum by Ennead.
May 19th: The new SFMOMA addition by Snøhetta.
May 20th: Silicon Valley and San Jose, with the Richard Meier City Hall. Domes seem to be very important in this area.
May 22nd: Oakland and Berkeley. Julia Morgan’s Berkeley Women’s City Club.
May 23rd: Driving up Highway 1. This is Keyes Creek, before it flows into Tomales Bay.
May 24th: Glass Beach in Ft. Bragg, the remains of the former town dump.
May 24th & 25th: The last days on the road, spent in the redwoods.