Monthly Archives: October 2015

The Davies

Brian and Olga Davies were great friends of ours when they lived in Eugene.  Brian taught in the Interiors program with Linda, and Olga used some of her many talents working at King Design.  Brian brought talent, insight and dedication to his work, but he always was able to keep it in perspective, and his wry comments assured me that I wasn’t the only one who found academia a bit absurd at times.  Olga may have been the liveliest and most stylish person to ever live in Eugene, and there were many parties and gatherings which wouldn’t have been much fun without her.

The great friendship extended to the next generation too.  Diego was born soon after Greta, and they were buddies until the Davies left town.IMG_1530

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So it was especially cool for Diego and Greta to get together again.  They had no real memories of each other, but at a certain level, people who are little kids together always seem to understand each other immediately.  DSCF0668

Brian and Olga moved to Cincinnati ten years ago, where Brian teaches at UC.  They live in a house that is the opposite of their Eugene house in every way – instead of being a small, modern house in a big yard, their new place is a big, old urban house on a small lot.DSCF0675

Soon after arriving in Cincinnati, their son Marco was born – he isn’t pictured here because he was at sleepover when I finally pulled the camera out.  He is true wild man, bursting with energy and enthusiasm, and made me realize what a change it is when adolescence hits.

Greta and I had a wonderful time staying with the Davies – lots of food and drink and wandering around the neighborhood, but mainly non-stop conversation for a few days.  Brian and I sat up into the wee hours every night, comparing our ideas on the current state of life in academia and sharing our insights about cocktails and whiskies.  Visiting them made me realize how much we miss having them in Eugene. but at the same time it is wonderful to rediscover that with real friends you can just pick up again where you left off.

Cincinnati

We spent some time tooling around in downtown Cincinnati, but really went to see two specific things:  the train station – which has been converted into a collection of museums:DSCF0623

and has an incredible lobby:DSCF0617 DSCF0620

And the John Roebling bridge, from the 1860s.  It’s very interesting to see the progression of bridges in the mid-19th century which led to the Brooklyn Bridge.  Plus while it’s hard to get Greta to look at architecture, she’s very happy to visit bridges.  DSCF0651

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But what I continue to find most engaging in Cincinnati are the neighborhoods.  After the flatness and griddedness of the plains, being in a city where the neighborhoods, transportation routes and whole order of the city are determined by the topography (hills and water) is really engaging.  There was the Hyde Park district, where a very nice urban space is surrounded by mixed-use buildings, all within walking distance of Brian and Olga’s.  DSCF0525 DSCF0527

There was Mariemont, a John Nolen-designed planned railroad suburb from the 1920s, where some excellent duplexes on cul-de-sacs with rear alleys were designed by Grosvenor Atterbury (of Forest Hills fame).

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There was the area near the university (where the architecture was superior to the chili):DSCF0416

And finally, the Mt. Adams neighborhood, atop a tall hill right next to downtown, which is apparently now a major location of gentrification and yuppie-bar-hopping:

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I like street views that end in sky:

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A very livable city overall, which we could have spent a lot more time exploring.

University of Cincinnati

The University of Cincinnati is also a bit of an architectural petting zoo.  Apparently at some point the dean of the architecture school convinced the university that they should hire prominent architects to do signature buildings.  Predictability, the results are in the good, bad and ugly categories.  The juxtapositions are radical, as can be seen in the photo above, where you get Morphosis, Michael Graves, and one of the strangest brutalist buildings I’ve ever seen (is it a science building or full of telephone switching equipment?)

The Graves building is pretty darn nice.  It makes sense, it has a simple clear plan, and the scale of it fits in well.  (At least, we old folks from the 80s will probably like it.)DSCF0427

The Gehry building is not technically on campus, but a few blocks away, and is part of the general self-conscious milieu.  It sits by the side of the road, and it made me think of Venturi’s analysis of Las Vegas, a building which is trying very hard to create an impression as you glimpse it from a moving vehicle.

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Of course, the building that must be talked about is Eisenmann’s addition to the design school.  Seldom is a building worse than I expect it to be (I have pretty low expectations for some people), but this is one.  The exterior evokes recovered memories of all the bad color choices of the 80s – why was Eisenmann still doing this in the 90s?  (and why couldn’t he have remembered that he was once one of the “whites”?)DSCF0471

The entrance pictured above feels even worse than all those parking garages in TV shows where bad things always happen.  Perhaps Eisenmann was playing a joke with this, as an amazing amount of effort has been put into the extended entry stair which does indeed end up in a parking lot / service entry.DSCF0475

The interior has a couple of good spatial moves – a big void which goes through a few floors, a big stair which runs up alongside it, DSCF0459

but these big moves have no impact on the building beyond themselves – they do nothing to organize the building spatially or conceptually.  You come across them randomly – we actually wandered the building for quite a while before we found them.  Most of the time you’re in corridors such as this:DSCF0451

Fundamentally as boring and soul-destroying as any other internal double-loaded corridor, except that this one has cost an enormous amount of money in the pointless manipulation of gypsum board surfaces.  Yes, it’s more entertaining than two parallel walls, but you get the feeling (actually you know) that Eisenmann was just playing games with diagrams and ideas, and not at all actually designing the space.  These corridors meander through a solid mass, seldom touching the exterior wall or the interior void.  There is no order to the building that one can intuit after a while, and the infrequent maps are not much help in finding anything either.  The architecture department seems to have made a very good decision by staying put in the older building to which this is attached.  Maybe they understood what it was going to be like, and the other departments didn’t.  There is a tradition that the architecture building is usually the worst one on a campus, and here again we see Eisenmann  manifesting his familiarity with architectural history and tradition.

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The part of campus which I unexpectedly loved was the relatively new “main street”, with the site plan by Hargreaves Associates, and which comprises some older Georgian buildings, some new buildings by Morphosis, Moore Ruble Yudell, Gwathmey Siegel and others, and which abuts and overlook the football stadium.  It’s a spectacular bit of urban design, with well-contained spaces squeezed between very active building forms, constantly shifting perspectives, long and short views, and contrasting materials and styles.DSCF0487

The radical change of scale that comes from incorporating the football stadium is brilliant, being able to look onto the field from above, rather than having the stadium be a looming solid wall that kills the space around it.  The glimpse of Tschumi’s building (the white one with the triangular grid) across the field gives you the sense of distance and scale that you sometimes get in a dense city, but almost never on a campus.DSCF0493

It feels like a piece of a city, and although undoubtedly planned to the nth degree, it gives that sense of unintended juxtaposition and unanticipated revelation which are perhaps the greatest architectural pleasures in a city.  DSCF0489

It seems fitting that this design is in Cincinnati;  after weeks in the grid-universe of the American West, Cincinnati was was the first place we came to where the topography dominated the city’s organization, where the back and forth between the pre-human world and the order of the planned city achieved a satisfying balance.  This design reflects that balance in a completely thought-through and beautifully articulated way.

Perhaps Eisenmann was trying to say the same thing, letting his building operate with more of a topological than geometric order.  But a building is not a city (although that might be nice conceit to explore in a design studio).  It can’t encompass all the complexity of a city and the contrasting set of ideas that develop over time.  Trying to make a building that complicated seems very forced – there are only so many unrelated ideas that can comfortably co-exist in a small place.

A campus is not a city either – it is fundamentally a planned entity, and somehow the attempts to mimic the city-like development pattern (such as the Oregon Experiment) haven’t been very successful in creating a city-like environment.  Lucien Kroll wrote about how to how to bring this sensibility into modern large-scale development (by allowing multiple voices and designers, and compressing the time-frame of city-building), and this part of the Cincinnati campus is probably the most successful example of that I’ve ever seen.   I loved it even more than I hated the Eisenmann.   DSCF0503

Skyline Chili

Normally I won’t blog about food I didn’t like. But as Skyline Chili is the signature dish of Cincinnati, I feel it is my duty.We ordered a Chili Cheese Coney, a bowl of Chili Cheese Fries, and a Skyline 3-Way, which was spaghetti with chili and cheese on it. The dog (I would be scolded for calling it that) was bland, almost as bland as the chili. When we were served, we were shown three piles of cheese, and that’s about all I could taste. The fries were soggy, and the spaghetti slimey, and neither of them had any flavor either.

I won’t say it was bad, because that implies that there was something of substance to the meal. Go if you’re visiting, as a cultural thing it must be tried, but do not mistake it for any kind of delicacy or fine cuisine.P1040386 P1040387 P1040388

Aunt Dawn and Uncle Bill

I recall that on one cross-country drive in the early 90s, i made it across Indiana without downshifting, having no particular reason to stop. Since that time we have acquired a very good reason to stop in the state, Linda’s sister Dawn and her husband Bill.

Dawn is a perinatologist in Indianapolis, and she and Greta have always had a great relationship.  At first I thought this was because no one likes little girls as much as a mother of teenage boys, but it has become clearer in recent years that they have a lot in common – both interests and personalities.  In recent years, Bill has been active in remodeling and reselling homes, and he has an excellent eye for and understanding of design issues.  So given our predilections and Greta’s, we left her behind in Indianapolis to web-surf and play with the dogs while Bill and I headed to Columbus for a day of architecture-geeking.  The next day we dragged Greta along, and Bill gave us a fantastic tour of Indianapolis.  (He also introduced us to Graeters ice cream, which we somehow managed to eat four days in a row.)

It was a really nice break from an intense few weeks of travel to just relax with them, catch up on sleep and laundry, and eat fantastic and healthy home-cooked meals.  (Greta’s not yet sure if she should blog about home-cooking or just stick to restaurants.)  It’s been great seeing friends on this trip, but there’s something special about being able to stay with family.

Selfies

I’ve always been fascinated by the tourism environment.  When you’re traveling, you are sometimes within the orbit of the place you’re visiting, but you are sometimes in the tourist world, which has varying degrees of connection to the real place.  I first became conscious of this in Europe in the 80s, when I saw some English tourists looking at small transparencies of Michelangelo sculptures on a slide viewing machine, rather than the actual objects themselves (which were in the same room).  For a while I photographed tourists having pictures taken of themselves in front of famous sights, being interested in exactly which sights and views they found most important.

The advent of the selfie has added a whole new layer of complexity to this.  In Yellowstone there were selfie-takers everywhere, and I once again began to photograph the act of photography, but this time just of selfies.  DSCF8296

The classic tourist sights are prime grounds for finding excellent selfie-photos.  Old Faithful:

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Mt. Rushmore is the best, where people often try to line their heads up with the Presidents. DSCF8452

Notice the extreme stretch required to take a selfie which includes a crowd. This man needs a selfie stick.

Notice the extreme stretch required to take a selfie which includes a crowd. This man needs a selfie stick.

Big city selfies:

the selfie as recording the act of genuflection before the symbol of The Donald.

the selfie as recording the act of genuflection before the symbol of The Donald.

One begins to wonder whether the rules of safe bison-selfie taking should also apply to modern architecture.

One begins to wonder whether the rules of safe bison-selfie taking should also apply to modern architecture.

Selfie in the Park with George.

Selfie in the Park with George.

We have decided to participate in, rather than just observe this phenomenon.  hence, the architecture-geek selfie:

the Architecture selfie.

the Architecture selfie.

And a new format, the reflected-selfie.  This is a practical matter for us, as our primitive Windowsphones do not have lenses on the front, and so our normal handheld phone or camera selfies are rather hit-or-miss;  the reflection gives us some degree of control.

The reflected selfie.

The reflected blob selfie.

Perhaps the most interesting sub-genre is the bison-selfie.  Recent years have seen the advent of the bison-selfie attack, where unwitting tourists venture too close to large, unpredictable wild animals, and sometimes inadvertently capture images of their imminent attack or demise.  Here is an example:

http://www.washingtonpost.com/news/morning-mix/wp/2015/07/23/bison-selfies-are-a-bad-idea-tourist-gored-in-yellowstone-as-another-photo-goes-awry/

but you can just Google bison selfie for many more.  The bison-selfie has become a meme, and is being celebrated in the popular press:

http://jezebel.com/terry-gross-interviews-the-author-about-her-new-book-bi-1719997411

Greta and I were well aware of the dangers of bison-selfies before we went to Yellowstone, so we took precautions.  The following are a series of photos we took which illustrate Safe Bison-Selfie™ protocols:

Safe Bison-Selfie No.2. Dead bison are much safer than live bison.

Safe Bison-Selfie™ No.2. Dead bison are much safer than live bison.

Safe Bison-Selfie No. 3, in the Field Museum. Stuffed bison are even safer when they are in glass cases.

Safe Bison-Selfie™ No. 3, in the Field Museum. Stuffed bison are even safer when they are in glass cases.

Safe Bison-Selfie No. 4: bronze bison are even safer than stuffed bison.

Safe Bison-Selfie™ No. 4: bronze bison are even safer than stuffed bison.

And finally, we arrive at what can be understood as a meta-selfie.  That is, a photograph which is a selfie, but at the same time is photograph of a person taking a selfie, and in fact, is a photograph of a person taking a photograph of a person taking a picture of a selfie.

The meta-selfie

The meta-selfie

Our work here is done.

More selfie photos continue here.

Indianapolis

Indianapolis is just big – about 20 miles across, in either direction.  (368 square miles – significantly bigger than New York City).  This great size leads to a corresponding variety – a large and spread-out downtown, and many residential neighborhoods – from old and decrepit, to close-in and gentrifying, to old ones that are a few miles out from the center and unbelievably grand, and newer neighborhoods of McMansions on the periphery, which feel like they are out in the woods.  Bill Adams took us on a great tour which really showed the variety of places, but I felt that I had barely scratched the surface.

The downtown has some fine old buildings:

The City Market

The City Market

The Indiana Theater

The Indiana Theater

The Statehouse

The Statehouse, right where it belongs on the axis

a somewhat typical mansion on the north side

a somewhat typical mansion on the north side

And then the city has a fairly normal array of postwar buildings and juxtapositions, which vary from the commonplace to the truly weird

a nondescript but weirdly angled 70s-thing

a nondescript but gratuitously angled 70s-thing

A Marriott which probably looks much less real than the rendering of it did

A Marriott which probably looks much less real than the rendering of it did

a portico on a state office building, remarkably overscaled, ponderous and pointless

a portico on a state office building, notably overscaled, ponderous and pointless

the skyline as seen from the canal to the west

the skyline as seen from the canal to the west

a classic 70s Hyatt, which brought on a wave of nostalgia in me

a classic 70s Hyatt, which brought on a wave of nostalgia 

the NCAA headquarters, by Michael Graves

the new NCAA headquarters, by native son Michael Graves

with this attached hall-of-fame piece

with this attached hall-of-fame piece

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The strangest thing was seeing what aspects of civic life are most valorized.  The Statehouse is quite impressive, but who are those individuals being accorded a place of honor on the banners hanging out front?  Statesmen, or perhaps war heroes?

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No, it’s the Colts’ cheerleaders!

But by far the most amazing thing in Indianapolis is the Soldiers’ and Sailors’ Monument, which is in the center of town where the two main streets intersect, similar to the Philadelphia City Hall.  The urban space is very grand, a circle 500 feet in diameter between building walls, with the buildings enclosing the traffic circle and the Monument.  The Monument is covered with the kind of histrionic and spectacular civic sculpture which was common in the late 19th century (such as at the Columbian Exhibition, or the Maine Memorial in NY).  DSCF0297

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It’s a fantastic, over-the-top piece, and it may be the best means we now have to experience what the White City must have felt like.

Columbus, Indiana

Columbus, Indiana is a modern architecture petting zoo of the first order.  J. Irwin Miller, who became head of his family’s company (which manufactured Cummins diesel engines) after WWII, somehow became enamored of modern architecture, and decided that he would pay the architect’s fees for any civic building in Columbus, if they would hire serious modern architects.  Since the 1950s, dozens of significant modern buildings have been built there.

One of the most important is Miller’s own house, designed by Eero Saarinen’s office (with Kevin Roche as project architect), interior design by Alexander Girard, and landscape design by Dan Kiley. The house is a pinwheel design, with pristine, rigorous planning and space.  It might seem rather severe and removed if it weren’t for Girard’s exuberant furnishings (most of which I can’t show here, as you’re not allowed to photograph inside.)

the driveway

the driveway and carport

me of sixteen columns, supporting the steel roof structure

one of sixteen columns, supporting the steel roof structure

looking from outside into the dining and living rooms

looking from outside into the dining and living rooms

outside the kitchen

outside the kitchen

The house is superb, but Dan Kiley’s landscape is perhaps even better – extending the grid and zones of the house to the outside, creating an order on the site that is very formal, yet quiet and inviting.  DSCF0117

an allee at th rear of the house

an allee at th rear of the house

The downtown is full of notable buildings, but it doesn’t feel forced;  none of the buildings is striving for dominance.  In contrast to today’s flashy starchitect-branded landmarks, these buidlings fit well together, forming a coherent whole with each other, and the more normal commercial buildings of the town.  We don’t tend to think of modernist architects as being overly concerned with fitting into the context, but it is very clear that was the intention here.  Perhaps this was yet another requirement of the enlightened client?

the city hall, by SOM

the city hall, by SOM

library by IM Pei

library by IM Pei

inside the library

inside the library

the former newspaper office, by SOM

the former newspaper office, by SOM

a parking garage by Koetter/Kim

a parking garage by Koetter/Kim

The Saarinens were clearly the favorites, and after Eero’s early death, much work went to his successor firm, Roche Dinkeloo.

church by Eliel Saarinen

church by Eliel Saarinen

a church by Eero Saarinen

a church by Eero Saarinen, on the outskirts of town

the post office, by Roche Dinkeloo.  Lou Kahn on a government budget,

the post office, by Roche Dinkeloo. Lou Kahn on a government budget

it resembles the monolith in 2001, but it is really just a screen wall hiding the parking lot

it may resemble the monolith in 2001, but it is really just a screen wall hiding the parking lot

a giant portico wraps the site of the Cummins headquarters, again Roche Dinkeloo

a giant portico wraps the site of the Cummins headquarters, again Roche Dinkeloo

in the lobby of the headquarters, a huge open office landscape building, which takes off from Wright's Johnson Wax building, with its skylights integrated with the structural grid

in the lobby of the headquarters, a huge open office landscape building, which takes off from Wright’s Johnson Wax building, with its skylights integrated with the structural grid

architects of a certain age will be able to identify this building.  Did you know it came in color?

architects of a certain age will be able to identify this building. Did you know it came in color?

This is a really worthwhile place to visit – we barely scratched the surface in one day.  It is amazing to see what effect a great client can have on a whole city.

Lynne Dearborn

Lynne was already an architect when she arrived as a student at the UO in the early 90s. She came to further her research into affordable housing and CDCs, and I accepted her as a research advisee, as she was one of very few applicants I’d seen who had a clear idea of what she wanted to do, and seemed quite capable of doing it.  It was a pleasure having her in Eugene for a few years, as she did a great job balancing the demands of simultaneously being a grad student, a teacher, and a mom.  Lynne was more of a colleague than a student, and we were always in agreement on the shortcomings of the housing production system (and the profession).

Lynne decided to continue her research at UW Milwaukee, where she received her PhD, and she then joined the faculty at the University of Illinois – where she has taught quite a number of students who later came to the UO as grad students (and one current UO faculty member).  Her work has always involved social issues in architecture, and in recent years it has brought her to many remote and interesting places around the globe (so she hasn’t felt quite the same need to travel around in a trailer for a year).

the architecture building at UIUC

the architecture building at UIUC

We had a brief visit but thorough tour of the campus (but still could not find out why what I always knew as Champaign-Urbana became Urbana-Champaign).  Certainly the highlight of the visit was meeting her new (to us) husband, John Stallmeyer, who is also on the architecture faculty.  I inquired how long they had worked together before they became an item, and ascertained that they came nowhere near the record held by me and Linda.  We had a very interesting discussion about the current state of academic architecture, finding that the issues which concerned us were almost identical;  I think this will become a continuing theme in this blog.

Champaign struck us as quite a nice town, and as always, it was great to see an old friend living a happy, meaningful and productive life

The Africanos

We’ve been visiting old friends on this trip, but sometimes we get to visit new friends, who somehow feel like old friends after a very short time.

I had heard about Rebecca Sigler-Africano and her husband Nicolas Africano for years.  Rebecca is the twin sister of our friend Deborah, whom we know because her husband, Rob Peña, taught with us at the UO in the early 90s.  We finally got to meet them when their son, Gianni, enrolled in the architecture program at the UO four years ago, and they would sometimes head west from their home in Normal, Illinois, for Gianni’s final reviews.  We’d really enjoyed spending time with them in Eugene, so we headed south from Chicago for a short visit.

They live in one of the most extraordinary places I’ve ever seen;  years ago they bought a mid-19th century orphanage in Normal, with lots of land and buildings, with room for a residence for them and their three sons, and the studio space which Nicholas uses to create his large, figural sculptures.  Over the years they have sold off some of the property to friends, but they live in the main building, a simple but elegant brick edifice with beautifully-proportioned rooms arranged on a central hallway and cross-axis for entry.DSCF0069

The home was amazing, and so was everything else about our visit – the hospitality, the food, the interesting and lovely neighbors they invited over for a dinner party, the chance for Greta to see what teenaged life is like in Normal (as she headed out to a horror movie with their son Pablo and his friends) but mostly the chance for what seemed like a non-stop, 24-hour conversation about life and art.  Nicolas took us through the building he uses as his studio, which comprises his sculpture studio (the room where he creates the wax sculptures which are used to make molds for glass casting), the kiln rooms (where his assistant uses the lost wax method to make the molds and then cast the glass), and his private study, which is where he thinks and creates.  DSCF0048

The grounds were gracious and beautiful (no one else on our trip has told us that they’d open the gates so we could pull our camper into the courtyard), with plenty of room for Luigi (the dog) to run around.DSCF0059

As with so many other places and people we’ve visited on this trip, we wished we could stay longer, but the highway calls, and we had to bid farewell to Normal, a place that seems anything but.  DSCF0074