September 21 – Sunrise today at our campsite. Greta had never seen Close Encounters, so we watched it last night under the stars (they show it here every night). Much speculation on how the commodification of experience in mass media validates our own experiences, making them seem more authentic. Can any American of a certain age actually see Devil’s Tower? Walker Percy would have been amused.
Tag Archives: #vanlife
Elk Chili
After eating canned soup for two nights previously, the Grant’s Village Restaurant near our campsite in Yellowstone was a welcome treat. When I walked in and saw a sign saying that the night’s special was elk chili, I immediately knew what I was going to get. It turns out, I made a great choice. Unlike Campbell’s, the chili was not too thin, nor was it gloppy. It was advertised as having “just enough cayenne pepper to heat up a cool fall evening,” and they were right. I didn’t even notice the spice until I paused for a second to let it sink in. It was enough to make me reach for my water, but after a minute it didn’t even bother me. If no one had told me that it was made of elk, I don’t think I would have even realized that it wasn’t beef. But because I was paying attention, I could tell that the meat was slightly more tangy.
The bowl was large enough that I couldn’t finish it, and kept some for lunch the next day. It was still good, although the beans became a bit rubbery. The warmth obviously fades, but the heat doesn’t.
This chili was fantastic, especially compared to Skyline.
Yellowstone
September 18-20. We arrived in Yellowstone in the middle of a thunder snowstorm, and ended the day pulling a trailer over the Continental Divide and on to a dark, potholed road covered with slush and monster RVs creeping along at 5 mph. We crawled into our bunks and awoke to 25 degree weather, a pattern which persisted for our whole time there. Since our trailer probably has an R-value of 1.3, we started keeping our clothes in our beds, pulling them on in the morning, and then jumping into the truck to find a warm restaurant until the sun heated the park.
Greta was amazed by the variety of things and experiences at Yellowstone – big landscapes, wildlife (bison everywhere, often causing traffic jams), geysers, waterfalls, tourists, architecture – but no bears (although a grizzly had been spotted in our campground the day before we arrived).

Isa Lake, which sits right on the Continental Divide, and which drains to both the Atlantic and Pacific

Very large elk, which we pleased was behind a big log fence. However, the next day we saw him hop that same fence quite easily.
Old Faithful Inn
Craters of the Moon
September 17 – Craters of the Moon National Monument in Idaho. Or as Greta put it, Camping in Mordor. A volcanic landscape with stunning variety – visual, geologic, experiential. The caves were unexpectedly amazing – lava tubes which have partially collapsed and so are accessible. We analyzed and parsed the differences in our individual claustrophobias – I refused to go into the Boyscout Cave – too tight; Greta was uncomfortable in the Beauty Cave – too big, but we both loved the Indian Tunnel. A butte way in the distance could only be Uluru transported to Idaho. And as we were leaving the cave area, Greta spotted what has to the entrance to the Bat Cave.










































