Tag Archives: #vanlife

Devil’s Tower

September 21 – Sunrise today at our campsite.  Greta had never seen Close Encounters, so we watched it last night under the stars (they show it here every night).  Much speculation on how the commodification of experience in mass media validates our own experiences, making them seem more authentic.  Can any American of a certain age actually see Devil’s Tower?  Walker Percy would have been amused.DSCF8422

Elk Chili

After eating canned soup for two nights previously, the Grant’s Village Restaurant near our campsite in Yellowstone was a welcome treat. When I walked in and saw a sign saying that the night’s special was elk chili, I immediately knew what I was going to get. It turns out, I made a great choice. Unlike Campbell’s, the chili was not too thin, nor was it gloppy. It was advertised as having “just enough cayenne pepper to heat up a cool fall evening,” and they were right. I didn’t even notice the spice until I paused for a second to let it sink in. It was enough to make me reach for my water, but after a minute it didn’t even bother me. If no one had told me that it was made of elk, I don’t think I would have even realized that it wasn’t beef. But because I was paying attention, I could tell that the meat was slightly more tangy.

The bowl was large enough that I couldn’t finish it, and kept some for lunch the next day. It was still good, although the beans became a bit rubbery. The warmth obviously fades, but the heat doesn’t.

This chili was fantastic, especially compared to Skyline.

Yellowstone

September 18-20.  We arrived in Yellowstone in the middle of a thunder snowstorm, and ended the day pulling a trailer over the Continental Divide and on to a dark, potholed road covered with slush and monster RVs creeping along at 5 mph.  We crawled into our bunks and awoke to 25 degree weather, a pattern which persisted for our whole time there.  Since our trailer probably has an R-value of 1.3, we started keeping our clothes in our beds, pulling them on in the morning, and then jumping into the truck to find a warm restaurant until the sun heated the park.

Greta was amazed by the variety of things and experiences at Yellowstone – big landscapes, wildlife (bison everywhere, often causing traffic jams), geysers, waterfalls, tourists, architecture – but no bears (although a grizzly had been spotted in our campground the day before we arrived).

The snowstorm as we drove in on September 18.

The snowstorm as we drove in on September 18.DSCF8063

Isa Lake, which sits right on the Continental Divide, and which drains to both the Atlantic and Pacific

Isa Lake, which sits right on the Continental Divide, and which drains to both the Atlantic and Pacific

Old Faithful

Old Faithful

Geyser field by Old Faithful

Geyser field by Old Faithful

Practicing safe bison selfies

Practicing safe bison selfies

Castle Geyser

Castle Geyser

Dunraven Pass

Dunraven Pass

Bison everywhere

Bison everywhere

Lower Falls

Lower Falls

The famous Honda Hot Springs

The famous Honda Hot Springs

Yellowstone Lake at sunset

Yellowstone Lake at sunset

Very large elk, which we pleased was behind a big log fence.  However, the next day we saw him hop that same fence quite easily.

Very large elk, which we pleased was behind a big log fence. However, the next day we saw him hop that same fence quite easily.

Hayden Valley, where many wildlife enthusiasts with big telescopes gather to watch animals very far away across the river

Hayden Valley, where many wildlife enthusiasts with big telescopes gather to watch animals very far away across the river

Norris Geyser Field

Norris Geyser Field

Norris Geyser Field

Norris Geyser Field

Norris Geyser Field

Norris Geyser Field

Elk in the center of Mammoth Hot Springs.

Elk in the center of Mammoth Hot Springs.

Mammoth Hot Springs from above.

Mammoth Hot Springs from above.

Mammoth Hot Springs

Mammoth Hot Springs

below Gibbon Falls

below Gibbon Falls

Old Faithful Inn

DSCF8151September 18 – Old Faithful Inn.   I saw this building when I was twelve and loved it, but I didn’t realize how good it was until now.  A simple pure shape enclosing tremendous spatial complexity, detailing, order, imagination.  It’s Piranesi Goes Western.DSCF8091 DSCF8137 DSCF8141 DSCF8160 DSCF8172 DSCF8179 DSCF8182 DSCF8187 DSCF8191 DSCF8199 DSCF8204

Craters of the Moon

Greta in the Indian Tunnel

Greta in the Indian Tunnel

September 17 – Craters of the Moon National Monument in Idaho.  Or as Greta put it, Camping in Mordor.  A volcanic landscape with stunning variety – visual, geologic, experiential.   The caves were unexpectedly amazing – lava tubes which have partially collapsed and so are accessible.  We analyzed and parsed the differences in our individual claustrophobias – I refused to go into the Boyscout Cave – too tight; Greta was uncomfortable in the Beauty Cave – too big, but we both loved the Indian Tunnel.  A butte way in the distance could only be Uluru transported to Idaho.  And as we were leaving the cave area, Greta spotted what has to the entrance to the Bat Cave.

In the Beauty Cave, which I found okay, and Greta feared.

In the Beauty Cave, which I found okay, and Greta feared.

Greta discovers what is clearly the entrance to the Bat Cave,

Greta discovers what is clearly the entrance to the Bat Cave,

Climbing out of the Indian Tunnel

Climbing out of the Indian Tunnel

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It looked like Uluru in the distance to us.

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A cinder cone we climbed

A cinder cone we climbed

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